Please watch the short video and let us know your tips around problems we all experience in the field.

First off, take a small camera with you when you head out for a morning or afternoon of squirrel hunting. You never know what you may see (deer, turkeys, a good rub, nice deer trail, that perfect spot to hang a stand, limit of squirrels after a good day of hunting). I always try and bring a camera with me when I’m hunting squirrels in the late summer or early fall to get some snap shots of my deer stand setup so that I can come up with a game plan for when I come back to hunt it for deer later in the year. This is a perfect time of the year to scout out an area for deer because it’s still early enough in the year that you’re not going to spook or run off any deer in the area for good and since you’re already out hunting, it’s just an added bonus. So it leaves you to really just explore the woods, to find those big trails, the nice rubs, and the feeding areas that you’ll really appreciate knowing come deer season.

Another great thing that you can learn from squirrel hunting is how to actually become a better overall hunter. Use this time to practice sneaking up on the squirrels without making a single sound. Avoid stepping on the big limbs and small twigs, the leaves, and splashing in small puddles. Challenge yourself. Just how slow and quiet can you sneak from one tree to the next.  I like to think of myself as an Indian from hundreds of years ago sneaking up on its next meal. It’s tough, but you’d be surprised how much better you get after only a few days of doing it. Also practice listening and keying in on the faintest of sounds off in the distance.  It will teach you to be listening at all times, to pick up on the “right” sounds, and to use your hearing to your advantage.  This is a great time to learn the difference between the sound of a squirrel bouncing through the trees, one in the leaves on the ground, or a deer walking through the woods. I’m telling you it really does help out come time to hit the deer woods. So, not only are you enjoying a nice squirrel hunt and actually getting to shoot game, but you’re also learning, planning, and strategizing for the upcoming seasons.  Now, here’s a little bit more on the art of squirrel hunting.

NAME: Sciurus Carolinensis

Sciurus Carolinensis http://www.flickr.com/photos/utahdarkhorse/ / CC BY 2.0

HEIGHT: Between 7” and 12”

WEIGHT: 15 – 25 ounces

LOCATION: Woods lots, Ridges, Hollow’s, Hickory and Oak Trees

LIFESPAN: 2 – 4 years

DEFENSE: Climbing Trees, Camouflaged Fur, Extremely Fast, Sharp Teeth and Claws

SUGGESTED

ARTILLERY: A 22 rifle and/or 20 ga. Shotgun

The Squirrel is Native to North America and there are two main species that most hunters pursue. The Red squirrel and the Grey squirrel (The Red is slightly larger and as the name suggests, has a reddish color). Squirrels are most active in the dawn and at dusk, when they’re foraging for food such as acorns, hickory nuts, tree bark, and some flowers. So, when you’re hunting them, plan out your hunt so that it takes place during this time, as you’ll increase your chances of harvesting game greatly. Also, almost every squirrel hunter I’ve ever talked to says to hunt near a food source. I prefer Hickory Nut trees. Squirrels are also very agile in the trees, which makes for a very hard shot. That’s where your choice of firearm comes into play. If you’re a good, steady shot then go with the 22. (opting for the rifle will help with aim, steadiness, and quickness that will translate over to shooting your deer rifle) Otherwise, I’d stick with the shotgun because the little critters are known for their ability to dodge shots.

There are many great areas to seek out this bountiful game. One of the best areas as I’ve said before is food sources. Big Oak and Hickory Nut trees are prime grounds for finding squirrels. Now, once you’ve located the general area you hope to hunt them in, it’s time to find specific little details to help you narrow your search for ‘em. One key find that all squirrel hunters hope to locate are dreys, or squirrel nests. This is where they actually live and you can, upon finding one, shake the tree it is in (after laying your firearm down) to try and coax the critter out of it. Another little trick you can use is to stand still and listen for the treetops to suddenly shake. This is the squirrel jumping from tree to tree which provides you with a good idea of where he’s at.

Most hunters, when hunting squirrels, use either one of two methods: “Stand Hunting” (The hunter sits in an area where squirrels have been active and waits on them to come) and “Still Hunting” (The hunter slowly walks an area over searching the trees and ground for squirrels). When still hunting, practice creeping around in the woods so that you can’t even hear your own footsteps and try to keep from spooking any sort of wildlife (even small birds).  It’s tough, but is some really good practice. Both of these styles of hunting work great it just depends on whether you want to walk or sit.

When actually planning out your hunt, the best conditions you can have are:

· Cool, but not a freezing cold day (squirrels are most active)

· Calm winds (so you can hear the squirrels)

· Slightly damp leaves (so you can walk undetected)

· Hunting near nut bearing trees

Now, take the tips and tricks you learned and go use them. Squirrel Hunting is not a difficult sport and it’s a great way to introduce a newcomer into the outdoors. It’s very fun and can make for a memorable experience as well as prepare you for the upcoming hunting seasons.  Feel free to share your stories and pictures. I’d be thrilled to hear about them.

Ben Weddington

by Brendan Walsh & Jennie Crase

It’s No Joke!

A tough Midwestern man, Gene Garett, was cleaning out some ivy infested timber in the early 1990’s, with a bobcat and then burned the poison ivy and woodland plants on a hot, 90% humidity, summer day.

From the heavy, oily dust that fell from the poison ivy vine, covering Gene, and the contaminated smoke that was inhaled on that hot and humid day, Gene’s lungs became inflamed and filled with fluid,

he then died weeks later from heart failure. USJ’s Editor believes that it was this thick, heavy dust that Gene breathed is what really killed ole’ Gene. “Poison Ivy even gets the tough guys.”

Here’s a few tips to keep you from spending your summer scratching:

● Ever peel an orange and watch the oil and juices fly in the sun? Imagine a weed eater or a chainsaw in the path of poison ivy or oak, on a hot, humid day (when your pores are wide open) doing the same thing!

● Keep pets from running through poison ivy, oak, or sumac areas, as the Urshiol oil (the oil that actually causes the rash) can stick to their fur and then to you when you pet them. Remember your livestock can pick it up too! Goats and sheep, however love to eat the stuff, and it doesn’t hurt them. They are a good way to eliminate the plants.

● Change clothing as soon as possible after exposure and handle contaminated clothing carefully to avoid spreading the ivy oils.

● Launder clothes several times before re-wearing. Ordinary laundering with laundry detergent will remove ivy oils from most clothing, but not from leather or suede.

● You might want to have a particular set of clothes you work in around poison ivy, and at the end of the season simply throw them away.

● Make sure to tuck sleeves into gloves at all times, since sleeves tend to ride up the forearms and leave wrists and forearms exposed.

● Disposable gloves are a good idea. Each time you finish in the garden or yard just throw them away.

● Many people even become victims of poison ivy, simply by walking under the vines on a hot, sultry, humid, breezy day. The moist oil droplets from the vine can fall onto your sweaty skin and be quickly absorbed by your pores. It’s really nasty stuff!

● Wear a shirt without button holes. That’s one more crevice for the ivy oils to sneak into. Don’t tuck in your shirt either. The oils and clippings can collect along the belt and sneak down the pants to harm your special areas.

● Wash off the lawn mower deck, weed eater, and your clippers, too. If you’ve hit a patch of poison plants, the oil can stick to the blades, and you can pick it up the next time you work on the yard.

● If you’re weed eating, try wearing a clear welder’s helmet to keep the oils off of your face.

● Chainsaws are especially bad when it comes to spreading the ivy oils. The chain tears the vine and then sprays the oils back at you, allowing it to land on your clothes, skin, and near your eyes, nose, and mouth.

● When burning poison oak, ivy, or sumac, use extra caution. When it is burned and the smoke then inhaled, a rash will appear on the lining of the lungs, causing extreme pain and possibly fatal respiratory difficulty.

● A mask is a good idea, and be sure to stay upwind. Keep in mind your neighbors might be downwind, try to burn only on calm days.

• In the “ole’ days”, farms used to be inspected for the poisonous plants and thistles, and you had to keep the land clear of them, or pay the price to the inspector! Even having a patch of the poisonous plants on your land, might earn you a scandalous reputation in the nearby town, sometimes they wouldn’t even pick up your milk if you had too much thistle or ivy.

● Be careful where you pitch your tent and lay down your sleeping bag! Pitch your tent in open, sunny areas where the poison plants are unlikely to grow.

● Be prepared for an exposure by including hydrocortisone cream and oral antihistamines in your first aid kit when hunting or camping.

● As soon as possible after an exposure, thoroughly wash the affected areas with soap and cool water. Rinse with cool water. (Warm water opens the pores and lets the oils into the skin.) Unfortunately, the ivy oils binds so strongly to the skin, that washing more than 15 minutes after exposure does little to remove the chemical from the skin.

● If you are infected, apply cool soaks or compresses to reduce itching and decrease heat from inflamed areas. Exposure to hot water increases the itching.

● When spraying herbicide to kill the ivy, a crop oil is recommended, so that the herbicide sticks to the leaves longer.

● Try a stronger dose of Round-Up Ultra mixed with 24D or brush killer. Check with your local ag specialist or consult Monsanto at www.Monsanto.com or Gordon’s at www.pbigordon.com.

Symptoms

What really makes you itch is the Urshiol (oo-roo’she-ôl’) Oil that is found between the cells of the noxious plants. Only 1 nanogram (one billionth of a gram) is needed to cause a rash, but reactions are different with different people, depending on their sensitivity.

Every part of the plant contains Urshiol oil, and can cause a rash with exposure at any time of the year. Urshiol stays active on any surface, including dead plants, for up to five years!

The oil causes a rash that normally takes about 24 hours to first appear, though it may worsen during the next few days and may appear to spread, when in fact what is happening is that areas that received a lesser dose are reacting. The rash can take one to two weeks to run its course, and in some cases up to five weeks.

Severe cases will have small clear fluid-filled blisters on the skin.

Pus-filled sacs, containing a whitish fluid, may indicate a secondary infection. Excessive scratching may result in secondary infection.

If you get a severe rash, doctors may recommend a steroid shot (in the butt), as your only way to find relief.

References: www.poisonivy.aesir.com, www.wikipedia.org, www.webmd.com

Side Bar:

“Leaves of three, let them be!”

This patch of Poison Ivy was treated with Round-Up and still managed to re-sprout.

It Climbs, it creeps, & bushes out!

Poison Ivy can grow along the ground and up trees or other

structures (even your home). If it has a hairy vine, it’s probably toxic.

Poison sumac has 7 to 13 leaves on a branch, although poison ivy and oak have 3 leaves per cluster.

Poison ivy leaf color ranges from light green (usually the younger leaves) to dark green (mature leaves), turning bright red in fall. The leaflets of mature leaves are somewhat shiny. Each leaflet has a few or no teeth along its edge, and the leaf surface is smooth, with reddish stems. Growing up the trunk of a tree, the presence of many root-hairs will identify it.

Poison-oak is a shrub that can grow to 3 ft. tall. The leaves are 6 in. long, with three leaflets on each. The leaflets are usually hairy, and most often resembling white oak leaves; they usually turn yellow or orange in autumn. The fruit is small, round, and yellowish or greenish. Leaves are generally bright green in the spring (or bronze when first unfolding), yellow-green to reddish in the summer, and bright red or pink in the fall, with reddish twigs.

Poison Sumac is a woody shrub or small tree growing to 20 feet. The leaves are 25-50 cm long, with 7 – 13 leaflets; the leaflets are 4-10 cm long and sometimes mistaken for individual leaves. The veins from which the leaflets grow are always red. In autumn they turn scarlet and orange.

Provided by: United Sportsman Youth Foundation